Beyond the Duomo: Milan’s great churches

The Duomo takes the crowds, but Milan’s long history is written as clearly in its older churches: the basilica of its patron saint, an early Christian church behind Roman columns, the Renaissance church of the Last Supper, a frescoed convent and a chapel lined with bones. Here is how to see them in a day.

The Duomo takes the crowds, and rightly so. But Milan’s long history is written just as clearly in its older churches, scattered across the centre within walking distance of one another: the basilica of the city’s patron saint, an early Christian church behind a row of Roman columns, the Renaissance church of the Last Supper, a convent church painted wall to wall and a chapel lined with bones.

Sant’Ambrogio

Begin with the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, dedicated to Saint Ambrose, Milan’s patron. The city still keeps his feast on 7 December, the day La Scala opens its season. See the basilica’s website for Mass times and visits.

San Lorenzo

On Corso di Porta Ticinese, San Lorenzo Maggiore stands behind the Colonne di San Lorenzo, one of the oldest churches in Milan and in Italy. Inside, look for the Chapel of Sant’Aquilino, an early Christian jewel, and the great organ built in 1884 by Pietro Bernasconi. It opens on weekdays 8am–12.30pm and 3–6.30pm, and at weekends 9am–1pm and 3–7pm.

Sant’Eustorgio

Walk south towards the Darsena to Sant’Eustorgio. Its museum takes in the Portinari Chapel and the early Christian necropolis beneath the church, and is linked to the Museo Diocesano Carlo Maria Martini in the cloisters next door. The museum opens 10am–6pm without a break and closes on Mondays.

Santa Maria delle Grazie

To the west, Santa Maria delle Grazie is one of the great monuments of the Renaissance, bound to Leonardo da Vinci, and has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1980. Leonardo’s Last Supper is in the refectory beside the church: visits last 15 minutes for up to 40 people, Tuesday to Sunday, and must be booked, only through the official channel, cenacolovinciano.vivaticket.it.

A chapel whose walls are decorated with bones, a few minutes from the Duomo.

San Maurizio

A few minutes along the Corso Magenta, San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore is a Renaissance church painted wall to wall with frescoes; even the wall that once divided the public church from the nuns’ hall is painted on both sides. It stands beside the Civic Archaeological Museum.

San Bernardino alle Ossa

End close to the Duomo at San Bernardino alle Ossa, whose ossuary chapel is decorated with human bones. The sanctuary opens Monday to Friday 8am–6pm, Saturday 9.30am–6pm and Sunday 9.30am–noon, and the ossuary keeps the same hours but closes on Sundays. It is a place of worship, not a museum, so visit quietly and only at these times.

Our advice: book your Last Supper slot first, months ahead, and build the day around it; walk from San Bernardino and San Lorenzo to Sant’Eustorgio in the morning, then on to Sant’Ambrogio, San Maurizio and Santa Maria delle Grazie. Avoid Mass times, and dress as you would for any working church.